越後妻有大地藝術祭2018參觀備忘(不斷更新)(阿三@Art Appraisal Club)

A)基本概念

1)越後妻有為鄉郊山林地區,位於日本新潟縣南部,香港部屋則在最南端。該地區約有五個月時間處於積雪中,因有「雪國」之名。常年積雪一般達3米以上,最高紀錄為7.85米。現雖仍在盛夏,居民已開始準備渡過寒冬。

2)日本人較通用「大地藝術祭」一名,「越後妻有」(Echigo Tsumari)往往不能溝通。

3)越後妻有地區,以十日町及松代車站為中心,藝術祭開幕禮選址里山現代美術館於十日町車站附近,農舞台則在松代車站旁。至於香港部屋,則在森宮野原站附近(車站位於長野縣),飯山線十日町車站至森宮野原站車程約40分鐘。

4)香港部屋位於魚沼群津南町上鄉逆卷,新潟縣之邊陲,為本屆焦點新建築,於以學校改建而成的地標Kamigo Clove Theatre對面。

5)作品選址,最大的是地標式美術館(如農舞台及里山現代美術館),中型則在廢棄校舍(如Kamigo Clove Theatre、奴奈川校舍、「最後之教室」及繪本美術館),小則在人去樓空的民居;民居的使用,有的是原址使用或更改內部結構,有的全幢拆掉重新設計(如香港部屋)。還有不少作品散落於村落街道上、公路旁或山坡上,或一些觀念藝術的標記。當然,身體力行落田、跟居民一起參與與營運的計劃,亦是藝術祭的重要部分。因而,除了觀看作品,參加演出、光顧以當地食物及農產品及入住,亦是了解藝術祭的方法。

6)若作品捱不過三年,便會被拆掉。例如,中島加耶子以金繼復修方法,修補全間木屋的「傷痕」的作品《最後に継ぐ家》(http://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/artwork/golden_repair)已不在列上。又例如,澳洲部屋於2008年遭遇大地震,需要重建。

7)新潟地區盛產稻米「越光米」,米酒、米糕等製品十分有名。

 

B)入場費

.所有室內場地,均有義工駐守,故必須出示「藝術祭Passport」。

.現場購買價為3,500円(約港幣250元),高中至大學學生則3,000円(約港幣210元)。

.早鳥價為3,000円(約港幣210元),高中至大學學生則2,500円(約港幣175元)。

.初中或以下學生免費入場。

.Passport於各展覽地方均有售票,甚至連郵便局等地方均見有售,十分方便。

.Passport持有者,於指定餐廳、店舖、溫泉等地方光顧,可享有折扣優惠或其他贈送。

.個別作品參觀費用,分300円、500円及800円三類,里山現代美術館門票為1500円。戶外公共藝術則免費觀賞。

http://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/eng/

 

C)交通及住宿

1)東京至越後妻有地區

.於東京站或上野站,乘坐「上越新幹線」(JR East)至「越後湯沢(Echigo-Yuzawa)」站(車費大概6,870円,約港幣480元),轉乘「北越急行北北線」往十日町。

2)自駕遊(最佳選擇)

.因該區公共交通只維持低限服務,而大部分作品在沒有公共交通工具到達之郊野,故自駕遊為參觀首選。租車可在十日町藝術祭Information Center查詢。

.租一輛四人車,每日大概8000円(約港幣560元);聘請司機的話,四人車一般需要大概30,000円一天(約2,100港幣),若去的地方較遠,價錢更貴。

.七人車一缸油約6000円(約港幣420元),可行駛大概三天。

.藝術祭主辦單位設有收費智能電話APPS,指示所有作品位置及駕駛路線。而GPS於日本十分精準,不過部分於香港購買之流動數據咭,於山嶺裡可能收不到信號。

.建議自駕遊者,可選擇住在山林裡的溫泉酒店,選擇眾多,環境優美。

3)藝術祭巴士遊

.不懂開車之觀眾,建議參與大會的八條巴士遊專線,包括兩條全日線及六條半天線。每條路線天天成團。

.全日線,每條費用9,800円(約港幣700元),備有導遊全程介紹,並包一頓亦為「作品」的精美午餐。(香港部屋在Salmon Course線)

.半天線六條路線包覽藝術祭六大範圍,每條3,000円(約港幣210元),只包交通,沒有導遊或餐飲。(香港部屋在Course 3)

.每條路線到達及離開參觀地方的時間,均寫得清清楚楚,絕不延誤。因而,參加者必須按指示準時返回巴士,以免全車人久等,延誤行程。至於洗手間,不是每個參觀地方都有。

.可先於網上留座,或現場買票;網上留座者,需要屆時到Information Center付款。暫時觀察,不曾出現額滿情況。

.建議自備帽、雨傘、水、毛巾及少量乾糧。

.因多數集合地點於十日町及松代車站(只有一團在津南站),建議居住在該兩個車站附近。

(因Art Appraisal Club於香港部屋駐留,而飯山線火車班次很少,故參與巴士遊時,須預留較多交通時間。例如巴士遊上10:00於松代車站集合,我們則需要07:20出發,徒步20分鐘,於森宮野原站坐07:48火車至十日町,再於08:49轉乘至松代車站。到達集合點約為早上9時,等待一小時才參加巴士遊,而松代車站附近難找到餐廳或咖啡店。)

http://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/eng/tour/

4)單車及電動單車

.按官方網站顯示,可租用單車或電動單車。然而,作品多於山野鄉郊,山路遙遠,上落不定,又烈日當空或暴雨驟來,故建議單車只用作車站附近市內代步使用。

5)區內公共巴士

.只維持低限服務。對於不想參與藝術祭巴士遊限時限刻的朋友來說,仍不失為一個選擇。

.若至清津峽等旅遊地區,巴士路線相對容易找到;若至其他必看之選作品,則有點困難。同時,班次較疏,候車須時;巴士站很多不接近作品所在地,很多時需要花20分鐘以上的步行時間。

.自乘巴士者,一天大概可看到兩至三件作品。慢遊,也不失為另一種體驗。

6)計程車

.十分昂貴!

.有朋友從十日町市乘計程車至香港部屋,車費為一萬多円。另有朋友乘坐約6km路程,車費為2880円。

 

D)參觀香港部屋或入住Kamigo Clove Theatre

.香港部屋於Kamigo Clove Theatre對面,位置遍遠。

.從新幹線越後湯沢站,可乘坐公共巴士至「逆卷站」下車,每天只有四班,票價880円(約港幣62元),車程約1個半小時。

.最近香港部屋的飯山線火車站為森宮野原站(於長野縣),沿公路上斜徒步約20分鐘。飯山線只維持低限服務,於上學上班、下課下班時間才有「較密」班次。十日町往森宮野原方向,平日班次為06:21、08:29、11:52、13:40、16:14、17:35及19:02,尾班車為21:41。森宮野原往十日町方向,早上只有三班,分別為07:03、07:48及12:33,下午則有四班,分別為14:20、16:54及18:16,尾班車為19:45。

.十日町至森宮野原,車程約40鐘,票價500円(約港幣35元);十日町至松代站,車程9分鐘,票價260円(約港幣18.5元)

.村落附近有一家Familymart及一家主要做晚市的小餐廳,其他店舖則要至森宮野原站,但數目零星。駕車10至15分鐘,可至津南站(距離三個火車站)附近的超市,但新鮮蔬菜選擇不算多,肉類及魚則以雪藏為主。

 

E)語言及溝通

.因藝術祭已舉辦多年,絕大部分居民均熟知藝術祭情況,加上日本人多親切友善,即使語言不通,亦無阻協助。

.英語於日本不流通,但科技發達,Google Translate或錄音即譯APPS可以解決溝通問題。

 


(English) Reports from Echigo Tsumari

25 July 2018

A few days to Echigo-Tsumari Triennale opening

#HongKongHouse 20 mins to walk from #Morimiyahama: to prepare oneself for art in a place that is humbled by and living with nature (running creeks, majestic trees, fragrant grass, bursting rice fields…) is to prepare for a question..in places where every crevice is enriched by the sun, moon, and stars, what more can art do? Perhaps, to magnify in a microbial way what nature has never stopped doing – giving time, giving life.

Yang Yeung

26 July 2018

4'45am, 'rising to the sun' at #Morimiyahara

To begin by changing the habits of language and mind that correct the geocentric idea of ‘sunrise’. If these could change, other habits could, too.
Keep being reminded of festivals close to land, sea, and soil in Hong Kong, eg. #EmptyscapeArtFestival by #emptyscape, #FishPondSustainableArtFestival by #HongKongBirdWatchingSociety, #HongKongFishPondConservationScheme, and #ArtTogether, #Aroundsoundartfestival2009 by #soundpocket, and more…

Yang Yeung

26 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

All the while mulling over HK artist #TangKwokHin saying, “Life (生活) needs a distance to be re-experienced at times, and art gives this distance.” Today @ #MatsudaiNohbutai (農舞台),moved by works from past editions of the Triennale: #ShintaroTanaka’s dragonfly, #PascaleMarthineTayou’s Reverse City, also by new additions of #StJamesCreation with a team setting up ceramic potato pots made by HK artists, and ongoing #SenseArtStudio_HongKongFarmers tending their fields and tending their thoughts. #LeungChiWo & #SaraWongChihang’s Tsunan Museum of the Lost is all set up – must save comments for later, but for now, noticing sources of light on a night nearing full moon: portraits lit up, and a kitchen light, perhaps, from a close neighbor. #HKArtPromotionOffice’s #HKHouse seems to want to model the work of #SenseArtStudio_HongKongFarmers of the past years – not just the Triennale, but what it does to the meaning of inhabiting a place. Will it succeed, and by what means does APO measure success? Meantime, tree bending in the summer to show the burden of heavy snow in winter. Meantime (2), cannot take my eyes off the pink and gold of sunset en route from #Tokamachi to #Morimiyahara. Have seen thi at home in HK, too! Looking ahead, staying present.

Yang Yeung

27 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

Rising to a morning of blazing cicada calls, brisk winds, and terraced rice fields bursting in abundance. Recalling Hong Kong Farmers’ round veggie fields in Maitsuda that demand different kinds of attention. On the same note of ‘attention’, previewing #HongKongHouse, #LeungChiWo & #SaraWongChihang’s Tsunan Museum of the Lost: The artists pay tribute to persons unintentionally captured in old photographs of residents in the region. Utilizing multiple local archives, with meticulous studies into each person’s attire, adornment, and the circumstances they are in (eg. a gust lifts the tail of a man’s suit, a badminton player ready to hit the shuttlecock…), the artists become their semblance, which is then presented as full-sized portraits. I find this gesture of embodiment the most moving: in each semblance is not only a person but an encounter, without dismissing the incommensurable distance in-between. The work involves the leashing and unleashing of this distance; perhaps also a whisper: “How ready are we to let others into our regard?” I do wonder if the standardized format of the photographic works offer the best access to the subtlety of the artists’ experience.

Yang Yeung

27 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

Full moon tonight; first rim, second rim, third rim, infinitely pushing out its own coordinates until they are invisible to the human eye. Thinking of another way to regard the so-called ‘white cube’ gallery: the ‘white’ is a blandness and blankness that some art needs, to seek infinite expanse…

Yang Yeung

28 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

Volunteered for artist #Shimabuku to plant flowers in the fields around Ketto village in #Akiyamago. He has other works there, including one that gets cucumbers to ‘fly’ (being transported) above rice fields using a pulley system mounted on old wooden towers on both sides. ‘It used to be rice flying; now it’s cucumber or tomato,’ he said. ‘Why here?’ I asked. ‘Here, no one has time to get fat. They are always working the fields. I’m curious why people chose to live here. They are different from city people.’ ‘Perhaps spiritual, perhaps to be close to nature,’ I said. ‘Yes, but nature is also very harsh. Maybe, to hide…’ I think of how everyone needs to hide sometimes – artists, farmers, hunters the like; then, all of a sudden, nature wakes us all up from it, neither for good nor bad; just to be. Next to the artist’s work is a tree trunk with claw marks of a bear. The artist said the bear is nicknamed #crescent_bear’ because of the patch of white fur on its chest. Nearby, #JunHonma’s #MeltingWall outside a school-turned-onsen. From a turquoise blue, the ‘wall’ returned water to the summer sky.

Yang Yeung

29 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

No picture for any of this except the circumstances (what’s around) – to You who gave the warmest smiles, to You who speak no Cantonese the way I speak no Japanese, to You who brings the touch of sun on skin to the gazbacho Herman and Pak made, to You who say ‘I’m happy’ the way I too say ‘I’m happy’, to You who is so needy of sleep but still stand….Resentment or gratitude? It’s a choice not entirely up to us, but also up to us. What makes a day long? Is ‘long’ too much? Is ‘long’ a measure? Is ‘long’ bountiful? Is ‘long’ a stretch of time? Is ‘long’ all of the above, or everything beyond the above? Inspired by books in the open shelves of #Kinare_Tokamachi…

Yang Yeung

30 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

Special immersion on #KingsleyNg_StephanieCheung‘s ‘Twenty-Five Minutes Older‘ accompanied by a booklet cuddled by light and shadows…grew 5 minutes younger.

Yang Yeung

30 July 2018

Reports from Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, around #HKHouse

End of my morning hike blessed by ‘gifts from land’: tomatoes from grandma at 魚兼本店居酒屋, as if a prelude to #Gift_from_Land by Sense Art Studio + HK Farmers + St James Creation today at #EchigoTsumari_Auditorium. It was an occasion that corrects the way Echigo Tsumari Art Field is imagined (from some in Hong Kong, including artists and visitors) as related only to ‘villages’ as an idea of the ‘rural’ that is frozen in time. Instead, agriculture and commerce are involved with each other; farming communities are supported by urbanization; art emerges out of overlapping systems including processes of negotiation that recognize citizens as masters who govern what the common good is. In this case, well-being of the land gives rise to well-being of human and other beings with art being a medium that transmits – a symbiosis central to the triennale. Does the equality of freedom not have to be instituted and the care for each other be nurtured first for anything like this to happen? Not sure if it was Mars or Jupiter I was gazing at just now…but the wonder remains.

Yang Yeung

#StJamesCreation #Snow_of_Spring by #José_de_Guimarães #Mars_and_Jupiter_in_July_sky

31 July 2018

Ann Hamilton's Air for Everyone (2012) @ Echigo-Tsumari Art Field (Echigo-Tanaka)

The artist makes the house breathe. Of the many conditions of life the artist gives expression, I am impressed the most by the way air is simultaneously a bagful (at rest), drawn through bellows (as music), conveyed and connected by open windows (as wind), trailed from wall to wall (as imaginary & broken music), sculpted into a single long chime (as instrument)….all of which coming into awaking a dwelling. One sees here and hears there; one is here and is there. Modes of embodiment keep gently shifting. In the middle of the house, one pulls a string hanging from the ceiling to make a bellow swell; at the gesture of release, the bellow seems to let out an elongated sigh. I imagine how this might come close to being inside the belly of an ancient tree: whereas from the outside, it inspires awe, from the inside, it imparts safety, warmth, and an understated marvel.

Yang Yeung